ATech Machinery provides single head, double head and four head vinyl welding machines which cover all different levels of production requirements. Welding and Cleaning Machines Category We have been manufacturing vinyl welders for heater plate welding of PVC profiles since more than 30 years. Our extensive product range from bench top type vinyl welding machines to single head, double head and four head vinyl welders cover all different levels of production requirements. We also supply a complete PVC window & door frame production line with four head welder, CNC corner cleaner and robotized system. Our machines are of heavy duty design and extremely user friendly. The CNC type machines are equipped with a modem for fast service via remote access via Internet. All our welders are equipped with parameters and settings, which are necessary for the production of vinyl (PVC) windows and doors. It is guaranteed that only top brand quality components are used. We supply a rich variety of corner cleaning machinery and equipment for processing and cleaning of vinyl profiles after welding. Our corner cleaners come with different cutter stack capacity, where each cutter stack is assigned to a control button on the control panel of the corner cleaner for automated activation. So, ATech offers the right machine for each purpose and every production requirement.
May 09, 2013 I am in the process of removing all of my windows and cleaning them, outside as well as inside trim. I recently purchased an aluminum cleaner called Gords aluminum polish and, following the directions, began to clean the trim. Seems as though it is kerosene and some form of mild abrasive. Cost is hefty and results are very poor. How Not to Clean Aluminum Trailers. Posted on July 26, 2017 by Blue Ridge Trailers. Before-and-after an aluminum trailer cleaning with Aluma-Brite at Blue Ridge Trailers. Just because an aluminum trailer looks sparkling clean doesn’t mean it’s been cleaned the right way.
BEGINNERS' CORNER
A lot of trim pieces on older cars were made of aluminum that was anodized. Anodizing is an effective way to create a hard, weather resistant surface that will last a number of years without tarnishing. Eventually, however, the metal surface becomes stained and scratched and looking generally dull, so much so that it either needs to be replaced or cleaned.
Unfortunately, anodized surfaces don't clean well. In fact, if you scrub or polish such a surface all you will get is a shiny drab-looking finished product. In order to properly clean and polish aluminum you have to de-anodize it.
Sounds difficult, doesn't it? After all, the anodizing process requires acid baths, cleaning steps and electric current, not to mention timing equipment and dyes (for those colored surfaces like brackets, etc.) One would think, therefore, that de-anodizing would require the same materials, only in reverse order.
That would be nice and effective, but it turns out that aluminum is one of those metals that can be chemically de-anodized. All you need is the right chemical, and you can find it in your grocery store. The 'magic' chemical is sodium hydroxide, and it is the active ingredient in drain cleaners (Drano). It comes in liquid and crystal form and we find the dry crystals are the most effective (and least expensive.)
All you need to de-anodize your piece of aluminum is a shallow pan large enough in which to lay it. You'll need warm water, rubber gloves, eye protection and, of course the drain cleaner. Fill the pan with enough warm water to cover the piece and then add enough drain cleaner to do the job — we find that 1 tablespoon of cleaner to one gallon of water will de-anodize a couple pieces like headlight bezels.
Mix the cleaner thoroughly in the water and place the aluminum piece in it. Make sure there's air movement over the pan, since the vapors can be a bit caustic. Watch the bubbles form on the aluminum and lift it out every minute or so to remove the accumulated 'smut.' Smut is the chemical residue that forms during the de-anodizing process and you want to remove it periodically to expose the surface to the chemical. If the process is going too slowly you can add more cleaner.
After a few minutes you will see that the piece is a uniform, flat color. Stains and blemishes should have disappeared, leaving only scratches. Take the piece out and rinse thoroughly with fresh water. Dry it off and inspect for any residual anodized spots, which show up as darker surface finish. If there are any, immerse the piece in the chemical for a little longer and rub them out. Rinse and dry again.
Now you can sand your piece with 800 grit paper to remove scratches and then buff the surface to a bright shine. It will remain a soft surface unless you anodize it again, but that takes equipment and a little experience. We find that keeping a coat of wax on the piece prevents tarnishing and staining. Also, you can spray the piece with clear lacquer or enamel to protect it in harsher environments.